Portomarín: The Town That Refused to Drown

A Hidden Gem on the Camino Francés

As you descend from the hills of Ligonde and cross the bridge over the Miño River, something strange and beautiful unfolds before you, Portomarín. At first glance, it seems like just another charming Galician village along the Camino de Santiago. But peel back the layers, and you’ll discover one of the most fascinating stories on the entire pilgrimage route, a town that was physically moved, stone by stone, to escape the rising waters.

Yes, really.

A Medieval Town Underwater

Portomarín wasn’t always perched neatly above the river. The original village, with its Romanesque churches and centuries-old homes, sat comfortably by the Miño’s edge for hundreds of years. That is, until the 1960s, when the Spanish government decided to dam the river and create the Belesar Reservoir, a hydroelectric project meant to bring modernity to the region.

But progress came with a price. The old Portomarín would be completely submerged.

And yet, rather than let history vanish beneath the waves, the townspeople undertook an extraordinary mission: they dismantled and rebuilt their most treasured buildings on higher ground, stone by numbered stone. Pilgrims today can see the faint numbers still etched into the stones of the Church of San Xoán (also known as San Nicolás), proof of this monumental labor of love and preservation.

San Xoán: The Fortress Church

This isn’t your average church. Built in the 12th century by the Knights of the Order of St. John of Jerusalem (also known as the Knights Hospitaller), San Xoán is equal parts place of worship and defensive stronghold. With its thick Romanesque walls, turreted corners, and arrow-slit windows, it once served to both protect and inspire.

Today, it anchors the new Portomarín like a guardian from another time, silently watching pilgrims pass with dusty boots and tired legs.

A Town That Rises Again…and Again

Here’s where things get spooky.

When the water level of the reservoir drops during dry seasons, something surreal happens, the ghost of old Portomarín reappears. Stone foundations, ancient stairways, and sections of the old Roman bridge rise from the deep, like ruins of Atlantis whispering to those who care to look. It’s a haunting sight, especially for pilgrims aware of the ground they now walk on. You're not just passing through Portomarín, you're walking over it.

Pilgrims and Stairways

Entering Portomarín today is a symbolic act. A long, dramatic staircase, built using stones from the original medieval bridge that leads you into the heart of the town. At the top is the Capela das Neves, a small chapel that welcomes pilgrims as they climb from the river’s edge.

The staircase isn’t just functional; it’s a metaphor. You ascend from water and memory into new life and dry land, not unlike the Camino itself.

Portomarín Today: A Mix of Old and New

Modern Portomarín is compact, welcoming, and slightly surreal, like a village that was carefully reassembled in a dream. Its plaza buzzes with pilgrims, café chatter, and the clink of scallop-shell pendants. The buildings feel ancient and new at the same time, like living artifacts.

Food is a treat here, too. Locals are proud of their empanadas de anguila (eel pies), though more timid pilgrims can opt for Galician classics like pulpo a la gallega (octopus with paprika) and almond tarts that echo the famed Tarta de Santiago.

In September, the town erupts in celebration for the Festas do Cristo, a lively local festival complete with music, parades, and fireworks, a perfect mix of the sacred and the spirited.

A Pilgrim’s Pause

Portomarín is more than just a convenient stopover between Sarria and Palas de Rei. It’s a place that embodies the Camino’s deeper message: impermanence, endurance, and renewal.

As you sip your café con leche or soak your feet by the fountain, take a moment to reflect on where you are. Beneath your feet lies a drowned city. Above, a reborn one. And within you, somewhere between sore muscles and spiritual longing, maybe there’s something new being built too.

Buen Camino.

(also, look for a cat!)